Here you will find some useful tips for caring a variety of notions and sewing accessories.  Learn little tidbits of information about the origins of buttons in the button trivia section.  You might learn something new!  For more information send us an email and we'll be happy to assist you.

BUTTONS

A garment is never exquisite without the appropriate button.  Our buttons come from all over the world; and, manufactured from the finest materials to create a small work of art, not just a button.  Some of our styles are actually still hand made.  

Buttons did not originate as clothes fasteners.  For almost 3,500 years they were purely ornamental.    The earliest decorative button dates back to 2000 B.C.  Decorative buttons were attached to wooden pins that fastened to clothing as broaches.  As time progressed decorative buttons progressed from pearl to ivory and bone to gold and jewels.

The word button as a noun became the word button as a verb in the 13^th Century.  Buttoning a garment originated in Western Europe.  In the 1200’s a baggy free-flowing look was beginning to replace a form-fitting look.   A belt alone could not achieve that look.  The pins often did, but a lot of pins were required, and were easily lost or misplaced.  Thus sew –on buttons for easier dressing.  Another reason for the buttons was that during this time fabrics became finer and delicate.  Repeated piercing of fabrics damaged the cloth.  Thus the button mania began.

Buttons and buttonholes appeared on every garment.  Clothes were designed so that a parade of buttons could be used.  Slits and closures were made in impractical places just to display buttons that actually buttoned.  Paintings of the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries attest to the button mania.  The mode peaked in the next century when buttons in gold, silver and jewels became such a decorative feature and functional with a buttonhole. 

Men button clothes from right to left side.  Women button clothes from left to right.   This practice is traced back to the 15^th Century.

Men at court, on travels, and on the battlefield generally dressed themselves.  Since most humans are right-handed, the majority of men found it expeditious to have garments button from right to left side.

Women who could afford the expensive buttons of the day had female dressing servants.  Maids, also being predominantly right –handed, and facing button head-on found it easier to fasten their mistresses garments if the buttons and buttonholes were sewn on in a mirror image reversal. 

Tailors and Dressmakers complied and the convention has never been altered or challenged.

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A BIT OF BUTTON TRIVIA

• King Frances I of France ordered his jeweler to make 13.400 gold buttons fastened to a single black velvet suit.  The occasion was a meeting with Henry VII of England.

• Henry VII of England was held with great pomp and pageantry.  He was extremely proud of his jeweled buttons, which were patterned after his rings.  The buttoned outfit and matching rings were captured on canvas.  German portrait painter Hans Holbein was commissioned for this painting.

• During her long period of mourning, Queen Victoria used black jet buttons, setting a trend that resulted in black glass buttons becoming the most popular style of the 19^th Century.

• The word “button” comes for the French word “bouton” meaning bud, protuberance or any round object.

• The custom of sewing extra buttons on coat sleeves was done to discourage gentlemen from using their sleeve as a handkerchief.

• The Chinese wore only five buttons on their coat fronts symbolizing the five principal virtues of Confucius.  Humanity. Justice. Order. Prudence. Rectitude.

• Caspar Wistar, an immigrant from Germany, began manufacturing brass buttons in Philadelphia in 1750.

• During World War I the British Army used 367 different kinds of buttons.  Buttons were considered so important to front line troops that any kind of button could be requisitioned and delivered with eight hours.  The British Army spent $500,000 per year just for the paste used to polish the buttons.

• In France buttons were inscribed with the words “Vive La Liberte” during the French Revolution.  Long Live Liberty was the slogan.

• Louis XIV is said to have spent $600,000 on jeweled buttons for one of his garments.

• The expression of Brass Buttons suggests authority and service.

• In America, buttons were once used for trading the Indians.

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BUTTON CARE – A FEW SUGGESTIONS

• MOTHER-OF PEARL or SHELL:  God Bless Mother Nature for this miniature and wonderful work of art.  A very delicate button so when the garment is ready for the dry cleaner, request that the buttons be removed or covered with foil to help prevent breaking.  When washing, had wash with a gentle detergent.  Machine washing may cause them to break.  Do not put in dryer.

• RHINESTONE:  Rhinestone buttons re among the most decorative and expensive button on the market.  The most common problem is loose stones.  Always check the stones before purchasing.  If a stone does fall out, it can easily be put back into place.  Use a durable adhesive.  Never immerse rhinestone button in hot water.

• GLASS:  Buttons of glass were popular in the 1800’s and early 1900’s.  Today glass buttons are handmade by very few makers.  Let your dry cleaners know the buttons are glass and request they be removed.  Hand wash.  Button Pins make this an easy job when the glass button is a shank button.

• CERAMIC:  Ceramic buttons add panache to garments.  Hand washing in a gentle detergent is the preferred method of cleaning garments with ceramic buttons.  If you must machine wash the garment, fold the garment, tucking the ceramic buttons into the center so that they are protected.  Place the garment is a lingerie bag before machine washing.  Machine drying is not recommended.  If you must, then button the buttons and turn the garment inside out.  Pin the garment together in several places to protect the buttons.  Dry cleaning is not recommended.  If the garment must be dry cleaned, remove the buttons or ask the cleaners to “bag” the garment.

• POLYRESIN:  Polyresin buttons resemble ceramic buttons.  They can safely be washed, but not sent to the dry cleaners.

• SYNTHETIC MATERIALS:  Polyesters and nylon are the most common and versatile materials used for buttons today.  Casein, a milk-based plastic material with a natural-feeling texture also fits into this category.  An incredible range of colors, textures, designs and finishes are available in synthetic buttons.  Avoid excessive heat, such as a hot iron.  Attempt to discover is the buttons is internally or externally dyed.  Internally dyed buttons are colorfast.  When using a dark button on a light fabric, wash the button first.  If they contain excessive dye, it will usually come out in the first washing, thereby reducing the risk of the dye bleeding onto the garment.  Soaking buttons for any period of time can cause loss of color and luster.  Bleach may cause buttons to fade or discolor.

• METAL:  Popular for centuries and made of gold, silver, pewter, brass copper and a variety of alloys, most of them are very durable and may be washed and dry cleaned safely.  Most metal buttons will eventually show scratches, but these marks can often give a button an attractive patina.  Do not soak garments with metal buttons for an extended period of time.  This may rust or discolor.  If rusting occurs, make a paste of powdered cleanser and water.  Rub it gently over the stained area and rinse.  Keep the shine with silver buttons by using a silver polishing cloth.  Silver paste may be used for heavy tarnish.

• WOOD, LEATHER, HORN:  These natural products add a wonderful texture.  Do not hand or machine wash wood or leather buttons.  There are some exceptions of course.  Sometimes manufacturers will use a protective, water-safe veneer.  Horn buttons can be washed and sent to the dry cleaners.

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BUTTON CHART

 Linge is the traditional European sizing of buttons.

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 CLUES FOR COVERED BUTTONS

For heavy or stiff fabrics trim to reduce bulk.  For lightweight fabrics use two thickness.  For loosely woven fabrics line with thin lining fabric or tissue paper.  For still or heavy fabrics wet fabric and apply wet.  Cut fabric circle approximately twice the diameter of the button size.  For knits or heavy fabrics cut fabric circle slightly smaller.

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CHALKING TIP

Use wax chalk with fabric is heavy enough to hide the melted wax without bleeding through to the “right side” of the fabric or when marking for line cutting only.  Use clay chalk on thinner fabrics or “right side” markings.  Mark “wrong side” of fabric when possible and always use lightest possible marks.  If it is necessary to mark on “right side”, always test mark on a swatch of the fabric to insure marks can be removed to your satisfaction.

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DRESS FORM SIZE CHARTS

We have listed the basic sizes on the basic styles.  Other sizes and styles are available.  Please call customer service.  Measurements may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.

My Double has rotating dial wheels that turn easily with one hand.  Adjustments can be made in precise increments.  Foam backed nylon cover for easy pinning and marking.  It comes with an adjustable neck.  A pin cushion is on the top on the neck.  Pin hem marker for accurate marking.  It has a sturdy tripod base folds for compact storage.

MY DOUBLE	BUST	WAIST	HIPS
PETITE	30”-34”	22”-29”	30”-37”
SMALL	33”-37”	23”-31”	34”-42”
MEDIUM	39”-47”	29”-37”	40”-48”
LARGE	45”-53”	38”-46”	47”-55”

This form features an extra quick and simple adjustment system.  Twelve auto set dials provide for the ultimate shape adjustment.  Just press in the dial and turn to the required measurements.  The waist is adjustable for length.  It has a fully adjustable auto-set neck.  Full shoulders to help make sleeves hang perfectly.  Made of strong, light plastic material covered in 100% nylon foam-backed fabric for easy pinning and marking.  Stands on a sturdy pedestal base.  This form includes a unique hem gauge with easy basting attachment.  Twin Fit form is easy to assemble and dismantle for storage.

TWIN FIT	BUST	WAIST	HIPS
PETITE SIZE A SIZE B SIZE C SIZE D	30”-36” 33”-39”  39”-45”  44”-50” 49”-55”	22”-29” 25”-31” 30”-36”  37”-43”  41”-47”	30”-37” 34”-40” 40”-46”  46”-52” 51”-57”

DRESS-RITE INDUSTRIAL FORMS & DRESS RITE FULL BODY FORMS

Hand molded of processed paper mache by experienced craftsmen to exact dimensions and treated for durability.  This Industrial Dress Form is available in eight Missy sizes.  All forms come with collapsible shoulders.  Forms are Omalon padded and covered with linen and sewn in a princess line pattern.  Omalon, ¼” to 3/8” thick, is the best padding for pinning.  Linen covered.  The grain lines are formed in the padding at center bust and ¼” from neck to waist on back.  Features include a push button height adjustment; pin cushion tip; foot control pin catcher base.  Available with a traditional stand or a basket stand.  The FULL BODY FORMS can be suspended or they can stand on posts.  This makes it possible to dress form from top to bottom.  The suspension is counter balanced by constant force springs.  The ten pound pull or push raises or lowers the form and there is a knob that locks it in place.  The two inch wide crotch allows for draping swimsuits or lingerie.  The form is rigid and will not push away when placed on posts when top suspension is in place.  Separation of upper torso and lower torso allows back length adjustment form petite to tall by adding or removing inserts.  Removable legs make access to inseams and crotch area easier. 

LADIES

Shoulder slope is 22 degrees on all forms.  Neck slope is 25 degrees
on sizes 4 thru 10 and 28 degrees of sizes 12 thru 16.

DRESS-RITE INDUSTRIAL FORMS

YOUNG MEN’S

MEN’S

DRESS-RITE FULL BODY FORMS

Shoulder slope is 22 degrees on all forms.  Neck slope is 25 degrees on all sizes.

DRESS-RITE - HALF SCALE FORMS

The half scale form is the model of the standard full sized form using for designing and demonstrating draping.  This is also used for display work.  When the design is completed the pattern can be doubled to full size.  These forms are hand molded of processed paper mache by experienced craftsmen to exact dimensions.  They are durable.  The princess line and center line are embossed on the body of the form.  They are covered with double knit for easy pinning.  The form adjusts on its base for height. 

GLOBAL MODEL FORMS

All forms are made to order with a delivery time depending on the season.  These forms are manufactured with detail to shaping.  All forms have an auto-petal stand and collapsible shoulder.  Highly recommended by many Universities.  We have listed the standard styles used in the trade.  For any special sizing or any other sizes not listed or for any of the following styles please call customer service.  Styled include Dresses and Street Wear, Bridal, Cocktail, Sportswear, Separates. Coat and Suit, Girls, Teens, Intimate Apparel, Skirt Forms, Pants Forms, Hanging Forms, Separate Arms and Legs.  Quotations for budget concerns will be gladly given.

MISSY

SIZE	BUST	WAIST	HIPS
6	34½"	25½"	35½"
8	35½"	26½"	36½"
10	36½"	27½"	37½"
12	28"	29"	39"
14	39½"	30½"	40½"

MISSY PETITE    

SIZE  BUST WAIST HIPS   6 33½" 24" 35"   8 34½" 25" 36" 10 35½" 26" 37" 12 37" 27½" 39½" 14 38½" 29" 39½"

PRE-TEEN

SIZE	BUST	WAIST	HIPS
8	29½"	23"	32"
10	30½"	24"	33"
12	32½"	25½"	34½"
14	33½"	27"	36"

 

JUNIOR

SIZE	BUST	WAIST	HIPS
5	33½"	24"	35"
7	34½"	25"	3"
9	35½"	26"	37"
11	36½"	28"	39"
13	37½"	28"	49"
15	39"	29½"	40½"

 

JUNIOR PETITE

SIZE   BUST   WAIST   HIPS   5   32 ½”   24”   33 ½”   7   33 ½”   25”   34 ½”   9   34 ½”   26”   35 ½”   11   35 ½”   27”   36 ½” 13   36 ½”   28”   37 ½”

WOMEN’S – SPECIAL LARGER SIZES

SIZE	BUST	WAIST	HIPS
12	36½”	28”	38”
14	37½”	30”	39 ½”
20	45”	37”	48”
34	39”	31½”	41”
36	41”	33½”	42 ½”
38	43½”	35½”	45 ½”
40